We have been cracking on with the wetlev, as the season is coming to a start we thought it would be best to rebuild the supercharger on the 2006 Sea-Doo GTX jetski.
First thing to do was remove the supercharger – this is very simple and should take you about 1-2 hours. There lots off guides on the internet a quick search on the internet will provide many guides but a quick teardown is
- Remove seats
- Remove engine bay trims
- Remove inlet pipes
- Remove boost pipe
- Unbolt exhaust manifold and disconnect water pipe
- Remove exhaust waterbox strap
- Relocate exhaust
- Remove 3 bolts for supercharger and then slide supercharger out
Once the supercharger is out you should see some thing like this:
I made a bracket to support the charger in the vice:
The important part is the gear drive with clutch unit:
First job is to grind down a 25mm spanner so it fits on the flats next to the gear, undo the 17mm nut the thread is a normal right hand thread. Once the nut is undone remove the sleeve and the dished washers that are part off the clutch unit. You then remove the first clutch washer, followed by the driver gear and needle bearings followed by the second clutch washer. Once all removed turn the supercharger round and we will start on the input side.
Remove all but 2 off the bolts around the outside off the supercharger unit, I then split the casing in 2 by pressing wedges between the lugs that stick around the outside once the casing has come apart remove the final bolts and separate.
Now refit the 25mm locking ring on the back off the supercharger and using a 17mm socket undo the supercharger impeller (this thread is Left hand so turn clockwise to undo) once undone remove the washer and the impeller and mounting base plus O ring.
Inspect the impeller for damage this one looked very good.
Next job is to press the shaft out off the supercharger housing. I sat the charger on so aluminium blocks and used a drill press to press the shaft out (the shaft came out quite easy with the bearing attached)
Now comes the part you need a special tool for, You need to remove the round aluminium cover that is the inner bearing cover. Because I dont have any special tools I made my own version. Using some 6mm steel plate I marked a 44mm diameter circle, I then marked a cross through the center off the circle then drilled a 6mm hole at each intersection point using a 6mm shanked bolt with the head cut off and using 2 nuts to hold it into the plate. I then welded an old wheel nut to the other side.
After heating the supercharger housing to release the loctite the tool was used to undo the cover
This cover proved to be very tight and took 2-3 attempts off heating and trying to get it undone.
At this stage with everything removed I clean both sealing faces on the supercharger and also completely cleaned all the housings
Next was to reinstall the bearing under the cover
Reinstall the bearing cover and using a drill bit I placed the shaft support in the back half (This stage was not needed as the main shaft and other bearing should be built as unit and pressed into this bearing)
Press the bearing onto the shaft and fit all the sleeve’s and spacers in the order they came out, Now press the complete assembly into the supercharger and other bearing
Now you should end up with this sticking out
Press the new seal in and fit the O ring and impeller mounting flange
Now refit the impeller (remember nut is Left hand thread) and torque to correct setting. Now apply a very thin film off sealer around the edge off the supercharger (most people use way to much and anything that squibs out will squib inside as well and go round the engine!!)
Now bolt both sections back together
A very very slight squib 🙂
Now we start back on the drive side off the supercharger, start by soaking the new supercharger washers with oil and install 1 onto the shaft.
I used a socket to act a press for installing the needle washers into the drive gear
I then very carefully installed the drive gear onto the shaft taking care not to loose and needles rollers
I popped some more oil on the needles rollers and installed the other washer
Reinstall the locking tab and clutch washers in the order shown on the sheet, fit the nut and torque the nut.
Now lock the drive pulley and using the torque wrench set to 8nm and check the torque wrench clicks before the clutch slips
Now set the torque wrench to 14nm and check the clutch slips before the torque wrench clicks. If yes (which it should) then great if not recheck your spring washers.
Reinstall the 2 rubber O rings and refit the charge and enjoy!
Hi – have you ever heard of folks initialling a washer in between the SC and the engine at the three bolt locations ? Being advised to do it, but seems very odd…
You only need to install washers under the supercharger mounting it you fit the later shaft (the rebuilt kit my guide shows fitting) into the early housing. The supercharger I rebuilt was a 2006 model and didn’t need the spacers but I think pre 2005 need the washers adding.
Thank you for that run through. You seem very knowledgeable about the charger and must applause you for A most helpful presentation. Thank You!! Lots of people talk A bunch of gibber jabber,only wanting to be seen on the web actually looking and sounding,they think “full of knowledge”” but to someone with experience they sound like Baffoons. Its nice to find someone that knows what he is talking about on the web finally. Again Thank You.